String a Lacrosse Head with Mesh
Materials
Lacrosse head
Mesh ( Stretch out thoroughly/ wash in hair conditioner if need be)
(2) 33″ top string (More or less)
(2) 25″ cross lace for sidewall
11″ bottom string
(2) Shooting strings
For another stringing article with good fundamental knowledge of the string, consider How to String a Lacrosse Stick presented by Medicine Man Lacrosse.
1.) Take the mesh and fold the top over 2-3 rows. For the purpose of this guide, you should have 10 holes across the top.
2) The first step in stringing a lacrosse stick is to attach the mesh to the scoop of the head. To start, tie a figure 8 knot on one end of the lace and pull the other end thorough the first sidewall hole as shown in Figure 2 & 2a.
Figure 2, the lace should be pulled through the folded mesh so the string comes from underneath the mesh.
3) Figure 3, once through the first mesh hole bring the lace back over the sidewall rail illustrated by the white arrow and insert in the 2nd sidewall hole with the blue arrow shown in Figure 3a. One through the second sidewall hole, bring the lace through the 1st mesh diamond for a second time from underneath.
4.) Figure 4 shows that the first mesh diamond is anchored to the side of the lacrosse head with the lace now through the mesh hole in position to now attach the rest of the mesh to the scoop.
5) Now its time to attach the mesh to the scoop holes. Take the position of the lace shown in Figure 4 and push it through the 2nd mesh hole, bringing the lace underneath the scoop and pulling it though the 1st large scoop hole. Figure 5 and 5a.
6) Pull the lace from the scoop hole (Pink) and bring it under the previous segment of lace (Red) so that it resembles Figure 6, making sure that the string is as tight as possible.
7.) Continue to now bring the lace over the backside of the mesh and push it through the 4th mesh hole indicated in a white number 4. Bring the lace under the scoop and pull it through the 2nd scoop hole indicated by the orange number 2.
Pull the lace from the scoop hole and bring it under the previous segment of lace so that it resembles Figure 6, making sure that the string is as tight as possible.
8.) Continue to bring the mesh through the 7th mesh hole underneath through the 3rd large scoop hole and then under the previous segment of lace. Pull tight.
9.) Continue to bring the mesh through the 9th mesh hole underneath through the 4th large scoop hole and under the previous segment of lace. Pull tight.
10) Push the lace (Neon Green) through the last mesh hole and through the 1st sidewall hole.. Once through tie a knot at the end. The first part of the topstring is complete. Be sure that all the lace segments are tight for a consistent pocket.
Now if you wish you may add a second string across the top for an added measure of durability.
However if you choose not too, you must anchor the last mesh hole to the sidewall.
Making a knot at the end of the second lace, push the lace through the 2nd sidewall hole and up though the 1st mesh hole. As illustrated by the white arrow, bring the lace over the sidewall and through the 2nd sidewall wall and up through the first mesh hole again.
11) Now that the second string has anchored the mesh to the sidewall hole, use the extra lace as an added reinforcement by doing steps 4-10 from the left.
Push the lace (Orange) though the 2nd mesh hole and under through the 1st scoop hole. Then bring the lace (Purple) under the previous segment of lace.
12) Continue by pushing the lace (Yellow) though the 5th mesh hole and under through the 2nd scoop hole. Then bring the lace (Blue) under the lace colored in yellow.
13) Continue following the illustrations.
14) Continue to follow the illustration.
15) Finally pull the lace through the 10th mesh hole and knot it through the sidewall hole.
Sidewall
16) The next step is to string the sidewall . The sidewall is the most important part in forming the pocket. There are different ways to string the sidewall and many variations with the sidewall holes and corresponding mesh holes you choose to use. Shown here are examples of locking the mesh to the sidewall holes and doubling up.
These illustrations will show you this techniques that will enable the stringer to customize the pocket formation to their preference. Generally pocket s are formed by the shape of the head, but depending on the techniques , the number of sidewall holes, their location and the attachment of the corresponding mesh diamonds will affect the size and shape of the pocket.
* Recommendation: String both the left and right sidewalls at the same time to prevent uneven stringing and mistakes.
17) Knot the sidewall string at one end and insert the other end into the sidewall hole and under through the mesh. Then bring the lace over the sidewall and through the same sidewall hole and under though the mesh again.
18) Notice Figure 18 as the lace comes out of the anchored mesh hole (Yellow) and through the 2nd mesh hole (Red). As illustrated in Figure 2a the lace (Green) then enters the inner sidewall hole, over the sidewall rail and then under the previous segment of lace. This technique can be described as locking the mesh to the rail.
19) Again, this technique applies to the next rail and mesh hole.
20) A view from the left, Figure 5 illustrates a skipped sidewall hole with the lace underlying the previous segment of lace. Notice that the lace goes though the mesh diamond and then though the inner sidewall hole.
The reason why I chose to skip a hole is because I felt that that the mesh diamond did not line up. If I did not skip a hole here, I would end up using s a diamond lower than plane of the sidewall here, thus bunching up the mesh and forming a deeper pocket higher in head, which I prefer not to have at this moment. It’s a matter of preference.
21) A close up example of interlocking.
22) Figure 6 illustrates the technique of doubling up the mesh. Notice how the lace goes through 2 mesh holes before entering the inner sidewall hole.. Doubling up allows a deeper, larger pocket.
23) Finally, completing the sidewall is the lace going through 2 sidewall holes before ending in the bottom sidewall hole with a knot.
Bottom String
24) Now to tie off the mesh, Put a bottom string through the first hole on the bottom of the head. Then put up through the 2nd mesh hole and weave through the rest of the holes until finally reaching the 9th mesh hole where you push it down through the bottom hole.
This is one way to tie off the mesh, but you can experiment with what ever works for you.
Shooting Strings
25) The final part is to string the shooters. Here are illustrations of 2 weaved straight shooters.
Begin by pushing the shooting string either though an empty sidewall hole or around the sidewall string like the Figure 25.
26) Continue by weaving the shooting string straight across through each diamond hole . Be sure that you have a consistent weaving method and that each lace has an even tension.
27) Finish by wrapping the shooters around the crosslace or through a sidewall hole, and tie off.
Congratulations, you just finished stringing your first lacrosse stick. If you have any questions or would like to add constructive criticism, leave a comment.
Related Posts
Lacrosse Backstop Tutorial: Make Your Own For Less!











































Nice guide, cheers!
Great tutorial, I will recommend it to anyone in need.
Nice work. This is a fundamentally sound technique. I’ve been stringing and repairing for almost 45 years and coach HS ball here in Central Pa. I use leather for the top strings. Very old school but it won’t tear up on the newer turf fields. Seems they always go just at the wrong time.
Thanks for the kind words.
Nice tutorial…how about giving traditional a try and posting about it?
Hey Matt,
At the moment I’ve been busy, but if I get around to posting a traditional tutorial, I will let you know!
this is the worst tutorial i have seen, you are obviously a rookie when it comes to stringing, the top string is horribly done, i dont understand why you would use two strings when you could accomplish the same thing with one and make it look 10x better when you use one string. learn how to string before you try and teach others
Thanks for the response Joe.
Maybe I didn’t make myself clear enough. As you pointed out, its not the most aesthetically pleasing stringing job I have strung. However I chose to show the addition of a second string to give the reader value in knowing that adding a second string will enhance the durability of the topstring. As you mentioned, adding 1 string would be redundant in adding durability to the topstring in the case that if it ripped, you would have to restring it. Players I know would rather have a stick that was slightly unappealing then knowing that during a championship game, the topstring could rip.
[...] “The Lacrosse Guy-ide.com” [...]
Sweet tutorial. Joe’s right it doesn’t look great but it works.
Thank you poopface, joe said many things but the gist of it is that it is not the prettiest tutorial and I concur. If you know how to string 2 topstrings, I am sure the advanced stick doctor will know how to string just 1.
Hey, thanks a ton for this tutorial. It helped me learn how to string and it was very easy. The way i did my top string looks cooler with two strings but its just personal opinion.
Thanks for the feedback monster_lax, I’m glad this tutorial was able to help you. Good luck with the rest of your stringing endeavors!
It’s a decent way to string but i believe that there is to much of a channel and that the pocket should be higher
[...] “The Lacrosse Guy-ide.com” [...]
[...] “The Lacrosse Guy-ide.com” [...]
[...] “The Lacrosse Guy-ide.com” [...]
[...] “The Lacrosse Guy-ide.com” Mail this post [...]
[...] “The Lacrosse Guy-ide.com” [...]
[...] “The Lacrosse Guy-ide.com” [...]
[...] "The Lacrosse Guy-ide.com" [...]
Question:
So I have come to realize there are a couple different ways of interlocking.
One way is to the inside, and one way is to the outside. Does it make a difference?
Also good job, but I was also wondering if you could explain the difference between a 2i and a 2.
I just am wondering if they are different. Thanks in advance.
Sorry for the late reply Jeff.
There are a couple of different ways to interlock, yes. It depends on preference and the type of mesh. For example, some players do not like the sidewall being on the outside of the head because it may rip. Other times it may be best to interlock on the outside. For example, with 5 Diamond mesh its so stiff and the diamonds so big that it bunches up inside the face of the pocket which does not do well for the overall pocket. Its a lot of experimentation.
2i means putting the sidewall through 2 diamonds and interlocking the next diamond hole to the rail. 2 means putting the string through 2 diamonds and attaching the string to the head with out locking the mesh to the rail. With 2 the mesh should be able to float up and down the string as opposed to 2i where it would be locked to the rail and can’t move very much.
Hope this helps!
why skip some of the sidewall holes ?
It depends on how you would like the mesh to attach to the sidewall. Skipping some sidewalls allow for customization of the pocket, perhaps for more desirable pocket placement.
Decent tutorial. Topstring is poorly done. Everyone, for a real tutorial look up Brendan Mundorphs tutorial. I think its on stx.com. Its better than this no offense.
How about you post a stringing tutorial for the 8-diamond mesh. I didn’t find one on the hole internet.
This was a great basic tutorial. My son, age 9, was able to follow and is thrilled to have strung his first lax head. Here’s to the next generation!!
Dude thanks so much just strung my first stick using this